Get All the Dirt
Free gardening tips, specials and bold ideas
delivered directly to your inbox.
Years ago, a close friend went through a divorce and moved to a small house of her own. The first spring she threw herself into fixing up the neglected garden, digging, trimming and planting. With her own bruised heart, bleeding heart plants seemed fitting. She planted a dozen on the shady side of her garage. The following spring arching stems of delicate heart-shaped flowers greeted her in May. Simple. Beautiful.
Now, years later, those bleeding heart plants are full and lush, and the friend wouldn’t replace them for the world. In spring, she shares fistfuls of cut stems with neighbors and is reminded of how far she’s come.
Regardless of what state your heart is in, plant bleeding hearts. There’s never a time when simple beauty is unwelcome.
Bleeding hearts prefer some shade and are happy with a range of light from dabbled sunlight to moderately shady to the shade that’s found on the north side of buildings. These plants are also well suited to areas that receive a few hours of morning light as is often found in east facing beds.
Moderate feeders, bleeding hearts grow well in average, well-drained soil and don’t require rich, perfect loam. Compost, dug in when planting or added as a top dressing later, provides a welcome supply of nutrients. Keep in mind that composts' NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassuim) ratios vary greatly form product to product. Don't assume that adding more is better.
Plant outdoors when frost danger has past. Bleeding hearts are hardy perennials and can take freezing without ill effects, once they are established.
Your bleeding hearts will be shipped bareroot, in a dormant state. Dormancy means the plant is not in actively growing; it’s been held in a cool, dark setting similar to winter garden conditions and is “sleeping”. The bareroot term means that the soil has been washed from the roots; there is no risk of introducing any soil-borne diseases into your garden, and the plants are lighter and cleaner to ship. When you plant your bleeding hearts, adding light and moisture, they’ll wake up. Roots will start growing in a few days and top growth will be visible in 1-3 weeks.
Dig a hole 8-10” across and deep, and mix in a couple scoops of compost. Fan out the roots in your planting hole and place the crown (area from which leaves will sprout) an inch below soil level. Refill around plant with soil, tap down to eliminate any big air pockets and water well to settle the soil around the roots.
In the garden, space your plants so they have enough room to grow without crowding. Allow 30-36” between plants; mature bleeding hearts grow big and full.
Bleeding hearts require little care during the growing season. During their first season while they are settling in, make sure they receive 1-2” of water, from rain or irrigation, per week. From their second season on, they’ll be fine with about the same or a little less. Feel free to snip flowers; this won’t hurt the plants.
Bleeding heart plants typically die back after flowering. At that point the yellowed foliage can be trimmed to the ground. It's often helpful to mark the spot where the plants are to avoid accidentally cutting into the dormant crown. Planting partners for bleeding hearts include ferns, astilbes and hostas. These are all active growers during the mid to later part of the season when the bleeding hearts have relinquished their space. These plants offer a great opportunity to have twice as much happening in the same garden spot.
Light: Light to moderate shade
Soil: Fertile and well drained
Depth: Plant clumps at ground level
Water: Average moisture
Uses: Beds, accents and woodland gardens
Tip: Use where deer are a problem
They Start Out Looking Like This:
Copyright © 2020 Leafari.com | Design by 2C Development Group