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Amaryllis are glorious for brightening indoors spaces and keeping winter’s gray at bay. Big, bold and beautiful. And they’re easy. Super easy. For great success you need three things: 1) good quality bulbs to start with, 2) a sunny spot and 3) a little water. That’s it. Read on for details and prove that your thumb is green after all.
(Here's how to make sure you start with high quality bulbs: Great Amaryllis bulbs.)
Amaryllis can be grown successfully indoors on a sunny windowsill, or outside in the garden if you live in a warm region, zones 8-10. These plants originated in Central and South America; they thrive in warmth and need bright light.
Like almost all bulbs, amaryllis grow best with soil that drains well. Soggy soil often results in rotted bulbs. Other than that, amaryllis aren’t fussy and most any commercially available potting mix will work nicely. If you are planting amaryllis in the garden, choose an area where water doesn’t puddle after a rain, as that typically indicates less than ideal drainage.
Plant your amaryllis upon receipt. If you need to wait a few days, that’s fine. Waiting weeks, with bulbs held out of the controlled temperature and humidity conditions at our facility, results in drying and shrinking. (Envision the amaryllis typically found in big box stores.) While dried bulbs are often still viable, these conditions can be stressful for the plants and may produce small or weak flowers.
Choose a container that’s snug, about 1-2” wider than your bulb and about 5-6” deep. Amaryllis bloom best when they are pot bound. Also, a container with a modest amount of soil is less likely to hold too much water; causing bulb rot. A container with a drainage hole in the bottom allows excess water to run off and helps avoid soggy soil.Fill the container about one third full of soil, position your bulb with the pointy end facing up and add more soil until just the top 1/4 - 1/3 of the bulb is left exposed. That’s all; don’t bury the entire bulb. Amaryllis do best when their “shoulders” are above the soil line. Water to settle the soil around your bulb.
Then, wait. Some amaryllis varieties sprout quickly and develop a flower stalk in just 10-14 days. Some take weeks to get going. Variability within a single variety isn't uncommon; some individual bulbs just sprout faster than others. Papillio is notoriously slow and can take 2+ months to begin to sprout. During this time keep the soil very lightly moist, not wet. It’s better to err on the too-dry side than on the too-wet one.
While your amaryllis is actively growing, add enough water to keep the soil lightly moist, not wet. Rotate the pot a quarter turn every couple of days to encourage flower stems to grow straight rather than towards the light. After flowering has finished, trim off spent blossoms. The stalks will dry and then can be removed.
Note: amaryllis foliage may precede flower stalks, grow at the same time or develop afterwards. This timing is variety-specific and is not dependent on growing conditions. Don’t worry if you don’t see foliage. It’s not needed for flowering.
If you live in part of the country where amaryllis can be grown outdoors, feel free to transplant your bulb to the garden come spring. It will probably skip a flowering season while it settles in, or bloom that first year in the summer. After that, your plant will resume a flowering schedule that’s normal for amaryllis, i.e. each spring.
For those who live in a colder part of the country, amaryllis bulbs may be discarded or composted after they bloom.
Light: Full sun outdoors, sunny window inside
Soil: Average soil
Depth: Leave top quarter of bulb exposed
Water: Average moisture
Uses: Garden beds in warm climates, showy indoor blooms anywhere
Tip: Choose a trio, with varied bloom times, for all winter color
They Start Out looking Like This:
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